Vol. 2, No. 8 August 2004

Sustainable Travel Report
The Responsible Tourism e-Newsletter

Message from STI President, Brian T. Mullis

In late 2002, after ten years of discussion traditional owners of Gudjekbinj (Baby Dreaming), an outstation in western Arnhem Land in Northern Australia decided to open their country to tourism. Baby Dreaming is believed to be 'mother' country to the Bininj (Aboriginal people of western Arnhem Land) - the place where all originated, and the home of baby spirits.

The senior custodians, Mrs. Nganjmirra, her son Peterson, and Mrs. Managku were driven to consider tourism by despair. Most of their relatives had left the country, many to become itinerants, or to abuse petrol or alcohol. They feared there would be nobody left to look after the country when they died. They thought that tourism would encourage relatives to return by providing work and income and removing external temptations.

There were other reasons too. For instance, the indigenous people of the area are renowned for their art, but have had some unfortunate experiences with dealers. Traditional owners also wanted a better relationship with non-indigenous people. Younger Bininj (meaning "the people") sometimes consider their language and custom "rubbish". Contact with interested visitors would give Bininj culture higher status and encourage more interest.

The results of this project speak for themselves. Many adults who were once itinerants and/or substance abusers, are now safe at Baby Dreaming, as are the children. Having seen that visitors arrive in small numbers and are not intrusive, traditional owners from other outstations now wish to be involved in the program. Such interest has resulted in an increase in status for the Baby Dreaming people which has, in turn increased interest from other groups. Residents control the sale of artifacts on the outstation and are directly responsible for making quality products and coming up with a fair trade price. Such contact with visitors is increasing residents' money-handling skills. Residents, both men and women, are also developing self-confidence, a sense of empowerment, and are beginning to trust in white people having acquired confidence and cross-cultural skills.

When traditional owners first considered tourism they believed that visitors would only be interested in big crocodiles, rock art and beautiful scenery - the focus of non-indigenous tour operators in Kakadu. And that those visitors needed to stay in hotels. They believed that visitor wanted tour operators and guides like those they had seen elsewhere. They believed that they would never be able to compete.

But, there were visitors who wanted what the Baby Dreaming people had to offer, for instance American birdwatchers/natural history enthusiasts. Generally well-educated and well-travelled they were unfazed by remote places and indigenous peoples. Indeed they viewed Aboriginal people not as 'cultural curiosities', but as fellow human beings. And many of these travellers were women who wished to meet Bininj women.

That visitors might want to know about birds, butterflies or traditional skills such as making string from a tree or traditional torches for setting grassfires or how to find bush honey was mind-boggling to the Bininj. However once they realized their knowledge, access to their unspoiled and beautiful country, and friendship was what visitors wanted, enthusiasm reigned! The visitors were considered "really great people". Best of all, visitor interest is encouraging Bininj people to pass on the culture to youngsters.

On Baby Dreaming, the visitors themselves provide transport, accommodation, food and other services, and the Bininj people just carry on much as they normally do, with the visitors fitting in. Sentence omitted.

To support this important initiative, please contact Denise Goodfellow who in conjunction with her sister Mrs. Nganjmirra, who recently passed on has made the dream of Baby Dreaming a reality.

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STI Outreach

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